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Pearls: A Classic Luminescence Draws the Spotlight Once Again

By Andrea Venn, PhD, CGA, 麻豆国产AV

Pearls have been desirable since people discovered them while eating shellfish. Indian, Chinese, Greek, and Roman societies of antiquity frequently saw pearls as tears of the gods, morning dew, or the result of lightning hitting the sea. During the Roman Empire, pearl trading in the West reached its first recorded peak as the conquest of Eastern regions brought large volumes of pearls to Rome.

In the 16th century, ships laden with pearls from the Americas spurred piracy between the Spanish and British. The Great Pearl Age of the English Renaissance continued through the 17th century, with pearls featured as a major indicator of power and wealth for royal and noble men and women. Later, Victorian jewelry pieces used dainty seed pearls to create popular wedding sets and act as accents for colored gemstones.

Pearls became popular in the United States after the Civil War, especially freshwater pearls from the Mississippi River and its branches. At the turn of the 20th century, pearls were the top gemstones of society, with the newly created millionaires of industry buying extravagant pearl pieces for their wives.

Cultured pearls took the United States by storm after World War II, when soldiers brought home strands of saltwater pearls for the women in their lives. They became an enduring classic of polished attire, and over time, they鈥檝e made their mark at every level from casual to haute couture. Harvesting natural pearls is slowly re-emerging, but most designers and manufacturers continue to use cultured pearls in their creations.

Golden South Sea pearl pendant.
Artistry, Ltd. 14K yellow gold pendant featuring an 11mm cultured golden South Sea pearl and 0.21 ctw of diamonds, on a 16-18鈥 chain.

Fast Forward to Today鈥檚 Pearl Trends

Baroque pearls, from the Portuguese barocco, can display a rainbow-hued orient that truly makes pearls mesmerizing. Their free-flowing, organic shapes are currently a prominent feature in curved golden collar neckpieces, wavy cuffs, and textured or free-form earrings. Fashion designers use brightly dyed baroque cultured pearl strands as statement pieces.

Men鈥檚 jewelry also embraces cultured pearls. A unique pearl brooch on his lapel sets a man apart at weddings, speaking engagements, or even on the red carpet. Pearl strands, bracelets, or stud earrings in black, gray, or multicolored overtones offer an understated, artistic polish to casual or athletic looks. A carved Tahitian pearl strand adds unexpected texture, effortlessly elevating any look鈥攆rom a T-shirt to formalwear.

For a more creative yet luxurious aesthetic, cultured pearls of varying sizes, colors, and types are artfully combined. Large cultured freshwater pearl strands of natural pinks, peaches, and mauves, black pearl stations paired with black diamond beads, and dramatic layered ropes of alternating white, black, and golden saltwater pearls redefine elegance.

Inspired by the seed pearl frames of vintage cameos and brooches, designers are venturing into white and multicolored cultured pearl halos on engagement rings and playful cocktail rings with colored gemstones. These pieces should be worn with care, as pearls are soft (only 2.5 to 3.0 on the Mohs hardness scale) and may need to be replaced over time if they become damaged.

As iridescent and striking as pearls are, they will continue to be cherished and celebrated for many years to come.

References:
Gemological Institute of America (n.d.) Pearl. Retrieved January 8, 2025, from
Strack, Elizabeth. (2006). Pearls. Ruhle-Diebener-Verag GMBH & Co. KG.